Russian lens guide

Optical design includes low dispersion and aspherical elements to correct a variety of aberrations and a BBAR-G2 coating to reduce flare and ghosting. Autofocus features a pair of VXD linear motor units for fast, accurate, and quiet autofocus. Sony FE 20mm F1. Dual XD Linear Motor system is quick and quiet, and also provides more responsive control for manual focus operation.

The lens also has a dust- and moisture-sealed design, along with a fluorine coating, to support shooting in inclement conditions. Sigma mm F2. Optical design incorporates a series of low dispersion and aspherical elements that greatly reduce aberrations to achieve high sharpness, enhanced clarity, and improved color accuracy.

Both Super Multi-Layer and Nano Porous Coatings improve contrast and color rendering by suppressing lens flare and ghosting under harsh lighting. Floating elements maintain consistent performance throughout the focusing range. Manual focus design features high precision helicoid for refined focusing control and Selective Aperture Control System allows you to de-click the manual aperture ring for smooth, silent exposure adjustment to suit filmmaking applications.

Its blade diaphragm contributes to pleasing bokeh. This extended working distance aids in adding light to close-up subjects and also helps keep a safe distant so not to disturb sensitive subjects. Distinguished by its constant T3. Sony G Master lenses are designed to combine both the ultimate in sharpness with spectacular bokeh. Their XA Extreme Asperical Lens Elements are designed to resolve an industry-best 50 line pairs per mm and with surface polished within tolerances of 0.

A guide to Russian LTM lenses – Part 1

Sony G lenses lenses offer excellent optical quality at mid-tier prices. These premium lenses exceed the optical quality of top-end premium lenses from other camera manufacturers but they lack the blade rounded aperture and moulded XA Extreme Asperical lens elements found in G Master lenses.

Non-Designated Sony lenses are aimed to deliver quality optical performance at an affordable price. In some cases, such as the Sony FE 85mm F1. Sophisticated optical design incorporates aspherical and low dispersion glass elements to control both spherical and chromatic aberrations for improved sharpness and clarity. Nano AR Coating has also been applied to individual elements to reduce surface reflections, flare, and ghosting for greater contrast and color fidelity when working in bright, backlit situations.

Sony FE mm F2. Optical design incorporates two extra-low dispersion elements to reduce chromatic aberrations along with two XA elements and three aspherical elements, which significantly control spherical aberrations for a high degree of image sharpness and clarity. Nano AR coating has been applied to limit ghosting and lens flare for increased contrast and color fidelity when working in strong lighting conditions.

Features a circular aperture that, through the use of curved blades, keeps the aperture almost perfectly circular from its wide-open setting to when it is closed for smoother, more natural defocusing highlights. Its advanced optical design employs aspherical and extra-low dispersion glass elements to control color fringing, distortion, and a variety of aberrations for greater sharpness and clarity.

A Nano AR Coating has also been applied to suppress lens flare and ghosting for high contrast and color accuracy when working in harsh light. Sony FE mm F3. Optical SteadyShot image stabilization lessens the appearance of camera shake when working in low-light conditions or with longer focal lengths.

Sony FE F3.

{Updated} Top 10 Best russian lenses {Guide & Reviews}

Its advanced optical design includes 5 aspherical elements and 1 ED glass element for reduced chromatic and spherical aberrations in a compact design. Optical SteadyShot image stabilization facilitates sharper imaging in low light situations and when shooting at long telephoto lengths.

Featuring power-zoom control with SSM Super Sonic wave Motor it allows precision and quiet operation with a variable speed and zoom rotation direction reversal capability. Three control rings for zoom, focus, iris offer manual control. Nicely balanced in size and weight for Sony a7 Series cameras to give you telephoto reach without weighing you down. This is a great lens for travel, landscapes and wildlife. Also an ideal choice for APS-C cameras like a and a where it offers the reach of a mm on fullframe.

Weird Lens Reviews: Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 with samples (Full-frame and APS-C)

Weighing in at a best-in-class Sony FE mm F5. This is a departure from previous GM lenses, which tend to be large in order not to sacrifice optical performance.A friend convinced me that having small-form, full frame camera would be an entire different way of shooting.

I value his opinion, so I picked one up. The 55mm shoots like a dream and is insanely light-weight. The mm and adapter are super heavy and ridiculously front-heavy. I really enjoy having big apertures available for low light so I started looking for another prime lens. It was awesome and unlike anything I had ever seen! This was a Russian-made lens that essentially tried to emulate a famous Zeiss one. This means they are really inexpensive because they are so common. I did a quick search on Ebay and quickly found a ton of these for sale out of Russia and the Ukraine.

What a deal! It looks like a Franken-camera. I really dig how crazy this thing looks. Other photographers have stopped to ask what the heck this lens setup is. The Sony A7 focus assist feature makes it easy to nail perfect focus each time. Instead of using a front or rear dial on the camera to choose your aperture, you grab a ring on the front of the lens to change it by twisting it to the left or right.

While the aperture ring took some getting used to it really slowed my photo-taking process down. The aperture ring on the front of the lens reads 16 on the left, then 11, 8, 5. Simply twist the dial to change the aperture. Light pole in a Missouri truck stop parking lot surrounded by corn. The standard challenge with manual focus is trying to eyeball the focus correctly. You might think your subject is in focus but you might be just an inch or two out of focus. The A7 has focus assist also called focus peaking that lights up in-focus sharp details in red so you know what part of the image is in focus.

This makes it so simple. Taking a portrait? This unfocused image shows the popular swirly bokeh effect. I bought the lens right before a two-week trip to St. Louis, Missouri to visit family. It arrived the day before we left so it was ready to go right away. After a quick test shoot I decided I was going to shoot this Helios 58mm exclusively for the entire trip.

I took the lens into my in-laws yard to find out how best to find the swirly spot. This image was shot up close which caused the background to blur too much for the swirl I was looking for. Can you start to see the swirl shape in the background? It seems that you need some decent distance from your subject, and you need some background that can fall into swirly bokeh in the distance.

I aimed up at a birdhouse about 8 feet away, which conveniently had a cute little toad in the lower peep hole and took the shot.Now, follow along with me…. Possible other materials: slotted spanner for the retaining rings if doing the lens front as well; flat black enamel for touching up lens interior, lens brush and tissues for cleaning the glass when everything else is done.

Oh, and time! Set aside at least an hour for this task. Set screws are little screws with usually no head and a point at the far end that digs into something to hold a piece in place against something else. Very very common in lens construction. They are extremely small and not all that strong. Also they are extremely easy to lose.

Now you know as much as I do! The first stage is easy enough: flip over the lens and remove the three screws holding on the rear ring. The screws are usually held in place with a spot of paint that must sometimes first be chipped away a little before you can easily remove the screws. Note that one side of the ring has recesses for the screw heads; this is the side facing the camera.

Once you lift off the rear ring, the next domed ring just lifts off. See pic. This ring lines up with a guide screw that will need to be removed before continuing the disassembly. I first carefully scrape off as much I can, then use Windex and a rag or cotton swab for the rest. Then go wash your hands. This is where your big wax problem is.

The helicoid is held in place with a limiting screw that is just accessible over the distance scale shroud.

russian lens guide

If I can, I leave the distance scale in place at this point if I can so I have a fixed reference for reassembly. If you need to go farther and actually remove the distance scale shroud you will later anywaynote that the center red triangle is closest to the two large limiting screws when you reassemble. This is critical for infinity focus. The helicoid can easily be screwed in so that it fits but the lens does not focus properly.

The notched areas should hit the limiting screw on both limits of the rotation, one on either side. Once the limiting screw is removed you can unscrew the helicoid and remove all visible grease from both it and the lens housing. Then clean with solvent and dry with a rag.

Pack the threads conservatively with fresh grease and reassemble. I use some nice Castrol synthetic grease I got from a bike shop.Matt Osborne explains how the raft of often-overlooked old lenses available today can open up a world of possibilities with your current gear. Pairing an old M42 medium-format lens with a modern-day Nikon D can produce great results. All pictures by Matt Osborne.

First, the sensor size of the camera you want to mount the vintage lens to must be equal to, or smaller than, the sensor size or camera format of the camera for which the lens was originally made. Second, the distance between the lens and the camera sensor the flange distance must be equal to, or greater than, the distance between the lens and the camera sensor on the original camera. As the majority either feature APS-C or Four Thirds sensors, they also follow rule one, making them a great option for shooting with vintage lenses.

As a result, the opportunities to use old lenses on such cameras are almost endless. I was researching photos I liked on Flickr, and then seeing what lens the photographer used to help achieve the look of his shot.

The results blew me away and made me look at other manual-focus lenses on eBay.

I discovered they could be bought for a fraction of the price of the Lumix lenses that were designed for the camera. At the same time, they were teaching me photography. The majority will fit most lenses to most cameras, assuming they conform to the rules mentioned previously.

Visit your local dealer or search online for your camera and the make or mount of the old lens you wish to use with it, and you should find something suitable.

The adapter allows you to mount the lens to the camera body as if it were a modern lens designed for that camera. Metering should still be possible in most cases, though. Along with standard adapters, tilt-shift lens adapters are also available.

This is not forgetting that some old lenses can be used on DSLR cameras with only part-functionality. While this might be an issue for some, such a set-up has its advantages. M42 lenses can focus closer than they were originally designed to when mounted on a DSLR, creating a pleasingly shallow depth of field.

There are a wealth of M42 lenses out there. The ability to achieve pleasing bokeh is one of the many appeals of these lenses.Time for the third part of the ongoing review of Russian LTM lenses.

russian lens guide

This time around we are going to take a look at Jupiter lenses, virtually all of which are decendants ripoffs is a more appropriate word though of Carl Zeiss designs from s and s. The biggest issue with the Jupiters that users have to keep in mind is that they are all based on Contax designs with This means that when screwed on the actual Leica bodies, the lenses would exibit focusing errors because of the rangefinder misalignment with the lens register.

The misalignment is greatest at the MFD and so even when you think you focused spot on with the rangefinder, the images would end up mis-focused. Easily the most venerable of all Russian LTM lenses, Jupiter-3 became popular after a couple of very upbeat reviews got published on various online forums. There are two well represented versions of this lens that you can find on the used markets - silver copy, which was manufactured through mid 70s and black version which was manufactured from mid 70s through late 80s when the lens was discontinued.

Many users claim that the older versions of this lens have higher quality, but I have not had a chance to try a black version and so cannot comment on these rumors. Third version, also silver, but marked 3K, was produced in the very early days and contains original Carl Zeiss glass that Russians appropriated from the Jena factory after the end of WWII.

Min focusing is 1m. Low global contrast at wider apertures, turning into moderate contrast at medium and small apertures. Very decent tonal reproduction throughout the focusing range. Pleasant, smooth looking bokeh at wide apertures. Warm colors with slight shift towards yellows. Another Sonnar copy, from mid 30s. An ulra rare version of the lens in collapsible barrel and marked with "ZK" was produced in late 40s, using the original Carl Zeiss glass and lens parts that Soviets cart-wheeled from the Jena factory.

Aperture ring is stepless, although samples from the very last years of production have introduced 1-f-stop clicks to it. Moderate global contrast and fairly decent tonal reproduction, make this lens a very nice option for portraiture type work, where you care more about skin tones than absolute resolution per se.

Prone to flare, so using a hood is advisable when shooting in bright conditions. Another very popular Jupiter lens. This lens was manufactured in almost every possible for its time mount - the original lens was first released in LTM Zorki and Contax Kiev mounts in late 40s, and later released in M42, in M24 and Kiev mounts.

The LTM version of the lens had a couple of cosmetic variation over the years and changed its labeling - the very early versions were labelled ZK and were manufactured from the original batch of Zeiss optical glass.

The very last batch of lenses was manufactured in black. The aperture ring is clickless on the earlier versions of the lens.

The min focusing distance varied between rangefinder and SLR versions of the lens - 1. Optically, Jupiter-9 is somewhat of a mixed bag. Best is a stretch word here since borders don't really never reach the same resolution level as the center, but are visibly better than at wide apertures. This is not a huge issue for portrature type lenses, which is what this lens was designed for in the first place.

Tonal reproduction is fairly good both in shadows as well as in mid-tones. Overall, 85mm is too long for my taste on an M8 and probably on M9 as wellbut on Sony NEX you get an interesting mm-ish fast prime.

A ho-hum lens in pretty much every aspect, with the only advantage being its low price.

russian lens guide

The very first versions of the lens, manufactured in late 40s, were marked with ZK - these samples had actual Carl Zeiss glass that Soviets appropriated from the Jena factory and are almost impossible to find these days.

There were a few other variations of the lens, but the differences were only cosmetic. Very lightweight for a mm lens, probably one of the lightest ever made.

Average performer in resolution department - decent center but borders fall off in quality quite rapidly. Moderate global contrast throughput the aperture range. Tonal reproduction is reasonably good, but the lens does not perform particularly well in bright environments where it compresses tones quite badly.While these classic lenses are no longer in production, all can be found in the used departments of camera stores and on eBay, and all except one can be adapted to fit current digital cameras and camcorders.

Indeed, many savvy shooters now use classic lenses like these for shooting art stills and vintage-look videos, which is one reason prices have crept up in recent years. Icing on the cake: If you want to get closer than The lens will also work, albeit less conveniently, on old Exakta 35mm SLRs. It is sharp wide open, has good contrast, and beautiful bokeh. It had the great advantage of minimizing air-glass surfaces and chromatic aberrations, and was produced in coated versions until the early 60s.

Note: Not to be confused with the current more expensive Sonnar C in M-mount. After drooling over these great lenses, you might also want to take a look at our earlier pick of the top 10 lenses for mirrorless cameras.

Search form Search. Lens Reviews. Log in or register to post comments. Latest Trending Photos Videos. Meike MK 6. Olympus 60mm Macro vs Olympus 30mm Macro Lens Are Your Prints Too Dark?

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Northern Flicker. Just Ducky in February. Portrait of a Tufted Titmouse. Abstract in Nature. Home from market. Bird of Paradise. Tahoe at sunrise. Moon Set. When is the Exact Moment to Capture the Photo? How to Shoot Eye-catching Swimwear Photos on Create new account Request new password. Leave this field blank.The beauty about vintage cameras is that it is a universal hobby.

All over the globe the passion for historic camera processes and analogue photography is growing again. No matter if you are in Hong Kong is a great place for camera enthusiasts. Like many other east Asian megacities, Hong Kong has a wide offer of shops dedicated to video- and photography, old cameras, vintage lenses and analogue The Pentacon Prakticar 1.

russian lens guide

Introduced in for the Leica screwmount rangefinder cameras, the Hektor 7. In the ies, the Hektor 7. I would like to thank Hassan for this article and for his patience I am sorry it took so The Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f2 was the standard prime kit lens of the Carl The Carl Zeiss Jena Topogon 25mm 4 lens is one of the first super wide-angle lenses manufactured for the 35mm film format.

The initial design of the Topogon dates back to when Robert How to adapt a vintage lens to a modern digital camera?

In order to use a vintage lens on your modern digital camera you will require in most cases an adapter. First the good news: it is possible to use Contax G mount lenses on modern digital cameras. Most lens manufacturer made a broad variety of wide angle lenses. Choosing the right one can be tricky. This is a subjective list of affordable vintage wide angle lenses in no particular order. The Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35 2.

It was produced for a quarter


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